Gabrielle Chanel on Cristóbal Balenciaga

“[Balenciaga is] the only couturier. He is the only one who knows how to cut a fabric, and mount it and sew it with his own hands. The others are just draughtsmen.” — Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

From a placard at Balenciaga: Spanish Master, at the Queen Sophía Spanish Institute.

My Grandpa Komm was a Tailor

Grandpa Komm in his carport, with an arrangement of Grandma's favorite pink peonies from their garden, on what would have been their 69th wedding anniversary. (She died 8 months before this photo was taken and he died 6 months after.)

I like to think that I got sewing genes from both sides of my family. My mom used to sew her own clothes, her mom made beautiful tatted lace, and my dad’s dad was a tailor. Today marks the 101st anniversary of his birth, so I’m writing a tribute to him — my Grandpa Komm. He is one of my greatest inspirations and I am incredibly proud to carry his last name.

My grandfather, Wilhelm (William) Komm, was born in Schildesche, Westfalen, Germany in 1910. His father was a bricklayer who was drafted into the German army in 1916 and served on the Russian Front, leaving his wife and six children to survive the rest of the War on their own. They never had anything to eat; my Grandpa told my dad that they would share one egg between all of the children. In the sixteen years that he lived in Germany he had only experienced a full meal once, and it was long after the War; he was out begging for food in the countryside, and a compassionate farmer led him to the one empty seat at the table with his hired hands and said to him, “Sit down and eat, Son.”

Because he had been severely malnourished as a young child growing up during the War, by the time he was a teenager he was a slight, sickly kid and unfit for hard labor. At the age of 14, instead of becoming a bricklayer like his father, or a harness maker and upholsterer like his oldest brother, he was sent to be an apprentice in the local tailor’s shop because it was indoors and not physically demanding.

Two years later, in 1926, the family immigrated to Canada and settled in the small prairie town of Cardston, Alberta. They didn’t speak any English, but luckily the woman who ran the hotel where they stayed for the first few days spoke German and found out that my grandpa could tailor. The following morning she took him to the tailor’s shop on Main Street and he started sewing right away. For his day’s work he was paid one dollar. It was the first money that anyone in his family earned in Canada. I’m so proud that he was able to do that for his family. (And especially proud that he earned it by sewing!)

It’s impossible for me to imagine Grandpa Komm as a pale, sickly kid. I always knew him as the picture of health and vitality. He lived to be 3 weeks shy of his 96th birthday and kept himself busy doing all kinds of things, including  mending and alterations for friends and neighbors, right up until the very end. Literally. Just a few hours before he suffered the stroke that caused him to pass away, someone had stopped by his house (yes, he was still living in his own home — with a driver’s license!) to drop off eight pairs of pants for him to alter… I can only hope that I’ll live to be 95 and still be making the dresses that I love so much to make!

Grandpa Komm's sewing room in the tiny bedroom under the staircase, in the house he lived in for 64 years. (I took this photo about a year before he died, when I was there for my grandma's funeral.)

Bernard Maisner’s Dinner Party

A few weeks ago while I was getting my mail I noticed something really special: a hand-addressed envelope done in characteristic Bernard Maisner style. Was someone getting married? I turned it over to see the return address. It was from Bernard Maisner himself! It was an invitation to join him and his business partner Lisa McCarthy for a “dinner soiree” at her Upper East Side home. I was so excited to be invited, this was a pretty big deal!

Bernard and I met a year ago at the Wedding Library/Martha Stewart Weddings Event while I was wandering around looking at the different vendor displays. His work is so out-of-control amazing that I spent quite a while fixated on the samples he was displaying. I’m obsessed with anything handmade, intensely detailed and perfectly executed, especially if it bears the distinct style of its creator. Bernard’s work fits into all of those categories. We began talking about what each of us do and had a creative-person bonding moment over the fact that we are both kind of artistic luddites, completely obsessed with carrying on our respective old-world crafts (albeit with current sensibilities) in a modern age.

The dinner was night before last and it was a truly wonderful evening. A really great mix of friendly and fascinating people, wonderful conversation, delicious food. My favorite part, though, was when Bernard gave a little speech. He held up a business card — his first ever business card — that he had made as a teenager. No, it wasn’t an elaborately illuminated piece of script. It was a white, typed, return address sticker affixed to a piece of yellow cardstock. He told us that once he had affixed all one hundred of the labels he realized, “it only had my address on it, so I had to write in my name and phone number underneath!” We all giggled at the irony, as this little cobbled together business card bore no resemblance at all to the exquisite and sophisticated stationary that he now creates for his clients!

I love seeing where talented, creative, and successful people started from, and especially where they can get to by following their artistic vision and dedicating themselves to their craft. What an inspiration!

Christian Dior

“In a machine age, dressmaking is one of the last refuges of the human, the personal, the inimitable. In an epoch as sombre as ours, luxury must be defended inch by inch.” — Christian Dior, 1957

As found in one of my favorite books, Couture and Commerce, by Alexandra Palmer.

Pierre Balmain

The classic way to design a dress is to work on it on a live mannequin.  A sketch is only the ignition of your inspiration, but the dress takes its true shape when made on the human form. I learned this cardinal rule from Molyneux, who saved me from architecture and gave me my start in the fashion world. I also learned from him never to add anything to a dress during a fitting. Always simplify — that’s the rule.” — Pierre Balmain

From the May 1980 Playbill article, Balmain on Broadway, a segment of which was on display at On Stage in Fashion exhibit that I visited yesterday. I went back today with a pen and paper to copy down this quotation because I couldn’t stop thinking about how true a statement it is.

On Stage in Fashion at the NYPL for the Performing Arts

I just caught the exhibit On Stage in Fashion in the nick of time because it closes tomorrow. I’m so glad I got to see it! I’ve always loved the performing arts — especially opera — because of the elaborate costumes. (I even considered becoming a costumer for a while; the summer between my junior and senior years at Parsons I did an apprenticeship as a costume stitcher at the Santa Fe Opera.)

There were some gowns by Callot Soeurs that I thought were extraordinary, and there was a bias cut chiffon ballet costume that had no side seams which fascinated me; I wish it hadn’t been right up against a wall so I could see how it was constructed in the back. While there weren’t as many opera costumes as I was hoping, there were a lot of really amazing archival costume sketches and photos from obscure but beautiful 20th century plays and productions.

It closes tomorrow but I overheard one of the docents mention to a group of students that it will be open on Tuesday…Go if you can!

Little Kids Being Creative

My dad forwarded me this video today and it made me so happy I was laughing and crying simultaneously as I watched it. How can you not be inspired by this? There is nothing that makes me worry less about the future of the world than seeing examples of young children being exposed to the Arts and being encouraged and nurtured as they express their creativity. (Plus this just seems like a great way for little ones to get some exercise!)

 

Snowflakes and Icing and Chocolate and….

These are some of the Christmas goodies I made while I was on vacation at my aunt’s house over the holidays… (I always have to be making something and when I can’t be working on a gown or drawing I’m usually doing something artistic in the kitchen.)

I love piping with royal icing — any icing, really — or even melted chocolate, as is the case with the dark chocolate turtles below. It’s like doing embroidery that you can eat!

A few weeks ago I posted a new photo to my Vintage Wedding Photo Gallery on Facebook. What I loved about it was the cake; beautifully iced with detailed piping. So, after I finished decorating my snowflakes, I did some royal icing freestyle just for fun.

I hope you all had a wonderful holiday, and best wishes for a Happy New Year!

Horacio Salinas Photo

While riding up my elevator with a pile of new mail, I began my typical mindless perusal of whatever magazine showed up. Today that magazine happened to be W. I randomly turned to the most extraordinary photo on page 32/33 by Horacio Salinas. It depicted a female torso standing behind a block of ice. What really spoke to me were the abstract patterns created by the cracks and clouds in the ice, the light and shadows, and the obscured flesh behind it. I could stare at this for hours – the simultaneously warm and cool color palette, the texture and depth. I just love it. I want a giant print of this on my wall. In the meantime the magazine tear out on my inspiration board will have to do.

Eric Joisel Origami

The other day I came across an obituary in the New York Times for an origami artist named Eric Joisel. I had never heard of him before, but the photograph of his work caught my eye. (How in the world could that be made out of one piece of folded paper?) So I read it and clicked through the accompanying slide show.

I was completely blown away. Nothing gets me more excited than seeing artistry and craftsmanship taken to the nth degree, especially by a single person using just their own two hands and minimal materials.

The obituary mentioned Between the Folds, a documentary in which he was featured, so I found it on Netflix and streamed it – with my eyes and mouth wide open, in total awe. This is a must watch!

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